April 18th Botswana
Seventy kms. of flat cycling brought us to the border. A good quarter of a mile of lorries were parked patiently to cross the river on the ferry. Uniquely in the world, four countries meet at a point in the river here; this is the River Chombe which becomes the Zambesi a few kms. downstream. Three of the countries want to build a bridge here. Who do you think is the fourth, who will not agree? Mugabe.
Chombe River
We are straight in and out of the passport office and onto the ferry. The long ramps of the flat-bottomed ferry reach on to the muddy bank. We carry our bikes across it, flit through immigration, the foot-and-mouth dip and then 10 kms. to camp.
Hippos
This relatively short ride enables us to book on a River Cruise up the Chombe river. Half of all of us riders took this chance to sail along the edge of the most wildlife-abundant Nature Reserve in the country. Groups of hippopotami ignored us as we came close. Fish eagles watched quietly from high branches. Giant monitor lizards went in search of birds’ eggs. Elephants trundled about the rising riverbank, their calves keeping close. They must have already known well before us…someone spotted a lioness quietly sat near the river. She suddenly was off, chasing a warthog! After her abortive attempt, she came back to the water’s edge and stared at us. We probably did not set her saliva running, skinny wretches us all!
Hippos, crocodile in the background
April 19th.
Dawn was still breaking as we left , the sight and strong smell of fresh elephant dung abundantly clear
Elephants looking for calcium in the soil
I knew very soon that I had a urine infection. It was a very uncomfortable experience riding the 80 kms. to lunch. Although TDA staff are thin on the ground – James, the cook, has gone for a few days’ break, while Gert, who usually makes lunch, stayed behind in Livingstone, having contracted malaria – we were treated to hamburgers. Paul, the Tour Leader, was being helped by young Steve.
lioness on the bank of the river
Early in the Tour, Steve realised his money needed supplementing. He has made a lot of riders very happy by offering to do their dish duties for $5 a time. He has washed bikes for £10 a time. But more importantly, he has generally helped out around camp in many ways. He found the cycling too boring, and has taken to hitchhiking most days, enjoying meeting whoever comes along.
After passing through thick bush, open bush and then, like an infringement of the natural order, immense flat fields of sorghum, soya beans and sunflowers, we came to a service station at 106 kms., the first sign of life all day. Paul put my bike on the roof of the 4×4, I sank in the seat and we quickly made it to camp.
giant monitor lizard, well, half of him
A test confirmed the infection, and Caroline started me on a course of antibiotics. Since the dehydration, my tummy/bowels have been troublesome, so probably the antibiotics will sort that out as well.
I could eat little for dinner and retreated back to my tent. During the night, the pleasant sound of rain was no impediment to sleep.
Impala on riverbank
April 20th Straight road to Safari Camp.
I sensibly followed Caroline’s advice and got in the truck. I do admit to feeling guilty about doing so.
The riders cycled through the rain till lunch, but made good time overall. Arriving at the campsite, we were told that this place had burnt down last year and has been rebuilt. As the lorry came to a standstill and we opened the doors to get out, we were immediately engaged by mosquitoes. We dived for our repellent.
Regardless of this pest, the facilities at the campsite are so good. Toilets and showers have become more frequent and in better condition as we have travelled south. These are the best yet. The bar and pool area is quite splendid; the chalets, at US$100, are absolutely wonderful, according to riders who have chosen to stay in them.
What is wrong with a good TENT?
This tent that I bought from the Dutch sectional rider, has saved me over an hour a day. I take it out of its sleeve and it just pops up. To take it down, I merely squash it together, do a couple of manipulations (of the tent) and pop it back. The TDA staff have kindly given me a spot to keep it, and life is suddenly much easier!
What about the BIKE?
I put a new chain on a few days ago. This is my third and final chain. The mechanics changed a gear cable a few weeks ago and a brake cable needs changing now. The only other problem I have had so far is with the derailleur; I cannot get top gear. It seems that it has been damaged beyond the ability of the mechanic to repair it. Overall, the bike is doing well. I am the weakest link up to now!
Best wishes
Eric
Eric what a time you have had.Suddenly my English grammar is … I am glad that you enjoyed the trip up the river before the infection happened as that is painful and uncomfortable. What a relief that the tent is so much easier. Hold on and out! Only a few weeks more. I am eating at Peter and Daphne’s tomorrow and we will discuss Cape Town. May you travel safe. Keep it up brother.
Tia
Hi Eric,
right now we are in Kentucky visiting Lisa and got some spare time to follow your blogs – I wouldn’t want to miss one of them!
We were laughing at your attempts to ride on a mutato and were startled by your descriptions of the accidents and injuries of your fellow cyclists. Please take care and stay in one piece, the finish is close and you might get less cautious.
Haven’t got time for more, your next blog comes faster than I’m able to write a comment…
Rushed greetings – Ingrid
PS: How on earth do you still find time to read books?
Hi Eric,
Yet another good blog keep it up. Don’t ever feel guilty for sitting it out on the truck when health is on the line. Everyone wants to see you reach the end still in one piece and in good health. Keep well, cycle safely the end in getting near.
regards
Dave & Sue
Hope by now the antibiotics have kicked in and you are feeling better, Great pictures. really enjoy your blogs
Betty
Hi Dude
Good to see the trip is moving.
Missing our rides out – Triathlon still going strong
Watch out for any big cats in your tent…..
Cheers
Mark
Hi Eric,
just read the latest blog. Compared to your (new) tent and bike you might not be as stable, but you will definately last longer!
Seriously: You are stronger than anybody else I know. Most of us would have given up long ago, deciding to take it easy and enjoy life at a nice pool in Luxor. You have chosen the hard way and your reward is a unique experience which others only dream of.
It’s wise to take the advantages of the truck once in a while to save energy and health. That way you will reach Cape Town – others won’t!
Drive carefully – Ingrid
Hi Eric, it was good speaking to you last week, hope you are feeling better and the infection has cleared up.The bike sounds almost terminal, what will you do with it when you finish the ride, will you leave it at the orphanage? Just take it easy, ride on the truck when you can and we will see you soon. J&S
Hello Eric!
Great to read you enjoyed the Chobe boattrip. But most of all I hope you are slowly but surely getting strength again, to enjoy the last bit of riding and scenery to its maximum!
Remember to relax and rest….
Bill was right when he said *cycle on with us to the Cape, now you may be stuck here in Africa*.
And indeed, as soon as I hit JoBurg airport, *vulcanic ash* chaos was complete. I am now booked for a flight next Tuesday for home… In hindsight, leaving the tour in Windhoek might have been just as effective. In JoBurg I called a friend who happily took me in, but in waiting for my flight has brought me now to Maputo for a few days.
I spent many hours finding alternative routes and flights, but did not like the idea of going to the airport with bag and bike and wait for no shows every day.
All the best, I envy you strong man! And say hello to your fellow riders.
Big hug,
menno.arendz@inter.nl.net
Hello Eric
Super blog as usual. Pleased to hear the recently purchased Tent has worked out well for you.
How can you possibly feel guilty having a ride in the truck when you are obviously feeling a little low. Just remember all those kms you have and will still ride – your just fantastic. I doubt that I could even manage 1km on a Gym bike.
Hope the urine infection has gone and you are feeling better. Just remember to drink plenty of liquids.
You certainly are not a “Weak Link” your achievement is incredible.
Not long to go now – take good care and rest when you can.
Collette & Terryxx
hi eric, looking at the pictures on your blog you seem to have lost some weight but i expect it is understandable. i hope the antibiotics are taking effect now.you seem to have been away for years not months but you have’nt got long now.all is well here.mum is always asking after you so you are constantly in her thoughts. keep in good health and keep peddling !!.love ruth x