We left Aswan in a slow cycle convoy, a one hour ride to Lake Nasser. Bicyles are not normally allowed to cross the dam; we were an exception. On one side of us, the still, shimmering waters of the lake, on the other side the gushing torrent as the water sped away to the north. Then we crossed again via the newer dam.  Although there was naturally some waiting for papers and customs control procedures,  we were soon by the boat. Those of us who chose to have a cabin, got one, two to a cabin.

Surprisingly, the bunks look OK and within minutes, a plate of apples and bananas arrived at each cabin. After eating these, I was still hungry so I devoured some pastries – we had all gone down early this morning to buy at the local bakery, anticipating 36 hours without food. Much to our surprise, we were given a meal in the cafeteria.

People and baggage are still loading. We hope to be away by 6 pm. So early morning we should get sight of Abu Simbel, before docking in Wadi Haifa.  So it is farewell to Egypt. All of us are looking forward to Sudan.

Most of us were going to sleep at 8pm when we were called through the tannoy to the “cafeteria”…..more documents to fill in, then waiting in a narrow corridor, through which waiters were passing to deliver food on impossibly large trays, until finally our turn came to have the temperature inside our ears tested and then our visas stamped. Getting back to sleep again in the stuffy cabin was difficult and I was still awake at 12.00 when there was a knock on the door. In came a boy with 2 soft drinks.

At sunrise, a number of us were on deck ready to see Abu Simbel. For half hour before passing it, we had been able to make it out, so massive is it’s size. Within a couple of hours we will dock in Wadi Haifa. Hopefully there will be little damage to the bikes, but conditions are so cramped on deck that people have been stepping over them. I know that one of my water bottles is missing.

Once on land, we only cycle about 5kms to where we camp. Food will continue to be our own responsibility today. Then we start back into our normal rhythm tomorrow.

26th.

Well, let’s just put the ferry down to experience. One of the TDA staff had taken an Immodium to avert the need to use the washrooms. One poor rider had diarrhoea before he embarked- bad luck for him.  In the event, one toilet kept going.

Approaching the port of Wadi Haifa, we first got a good view of Abu Simbel, close enough to see the tourists.  We also passed the barge carrying our 2 trucks, which had set out a day earlier.

The port is no more than a slipway, nothing else at all. Open trucks draw alongside the ferry, luggage- including a lot of TVs – gets passed down and then thrown up into a truck. . This process took a few hours; coupled with the delays of customs’ officialdom, it got to 4pm for we were able to cycle the 5 kms. to our campsite, again alongside a soccer ground

Tuk tuks rattled us into town. Nothing happens here for 6 days and then the ferry comes in. A few simple buildings congregated around an area through which a dusty track passes through to nowhere, quickly set up tables and chairs and ply us with cokes, since Sudan is “dry”, deep-fried fish, potatoes in a tasty sauce and chewy goat-meat. An air of “how good to be in Sudan” was palpable. The people are so openly friendly without being pushy. The lad serving us refused point-blank to accept a tip.

27th.

The road is paved all the way through to Khartoum this year So the TDA team have chosen to do the 4 days to Dongola in 3, thus making time for an off-road route after Khartoum through the Dinder National Park

Today was so good!  For me personally, there was the relief that my back seems to be settling down. For us all, the 150 kms. was on a really good road; no potholes, debris or traffic!.

Although following the Nile, we cycled through the desert. The pastel shades ranged from burnt orange through to black, each shade distinct from the adjacent, no smudging. I wonder whether this could be due to different inundations through the years. The small hills and rock forms also varied so much that they could have had different creators.

I stayed most of the day with a group of six. We lost one rider after lunch when he stopped for a pee, and another through diarrhoea.

Our campsite was the best yet. The Nile is 200m. away. A village adjoins us. The simple single story homes are made of blocks of baked clay.

After just 2 bowls of soup – I have the big dog-bowl now- 2 teas and a coffee, I joined others to go down to the river. This has to have been the most pleasant experience of the whole trip so far. To lie in the cool waters, wash off and cool down, was a perfect antidote to the rigours of the ferry and we were not put off by the warnings of our Sudanese security man of the dangers of the crocodiles. (I thought I heard him mumbling “crocks to the crocs”).

For the first time, I feel happy in my own skin. Not alone, for me the Africa trip has just started.  Egypt belongs to the Middle East.  Sudan to Africa.

034 036

Time cycling: 4 hrs. 42 mins.  Dist.: 150 kms.  Av. speed: 32.1kph

It is now 7pm. Everyone seems to be settled down for the night.

28th.

I was a few minutes delayed getting up to the road from the campsite. so I had to push to reach the group with whom I wished to ride.

I should explain that there are three riders always in the lead. Then there is the first group not far behind. Then comes a second group after which riders are alone or in 2s and threes. I caught the second group, but after less then half an hour someone called for a pee-stop. I chose to carry on on my own..

At the 80 kms. lunch-stop, the first group were still there. I grabbed a segment of grapefruit, filled my water bottle and went.

How our heads can play games with us! I had had no previous notion of competing with the first group…but here, suddenly, was an opportunity.  For the next 2 hours I just pedalled as hard as I reasonably could. It sure looked promising, 5th place!  Only 5 kms. to go. Then they were on me! Beggar!  I followed them in.

On the 2nd bowl of soup, I felt queasy, a bit hot and cold. To lie flat in the shade, I got under the truck . Then I turned over and brought the soup up.

After a rest, I had a good dinner and was fine.

29th.

A relatively easy ride over the 110 kms to Dongola took us over the new bridge spanning the Nile. We are camping in Dongola Zoo. There are no animals, but there are toilets, running water and grassy areas to pitch the tents on.

By 2 pm., most of us were washed, had our clothes on a line and were looking for somewhere to eat. Today is Friday, a holy day for the Muslims. Shops will remain closed till 5pm. After awhile trooping around in the searing heat we found a café – Chicken, some vegetables and falafel (fried chickpeas), washed down with cold water…this is the life. Oh, and some strawberry yoghurt and raisins. Did we feel good!

I recommend you look at www.africanride.blogspot.com to see the blog of one of the other riders. He updates it twice a day with plenty of photos.and he will probably be able to continue uploading when we can’t.  Also, the TDA site is continually updated.

30th

It is 5.30 in the morning. I am sat at one of the very few stalls open, drinking a coffee. The muezzins are calling the fervent to prayer. The stall-owner is frying doughnuts continually. There must be 200 already.

After unsuccessfully uploading my blog in the internet cafe last night, I joined some other riders for a tea at one of the many stalls. This town has a vibrance without being hectic. Sure, it is rundown- if it was ever run up!-  but once you desist from applying previously accumulated criteria, it is rather pleasant. As a tourist, you would ask for your money back. We are itinerants and can enjoy it.

Going back to the campsite last night, I went to the toilet block, or squatters’ corner, if you like. As mosquitos flew round my head and cockroaches scurried around my feet, I suddenly lost the urge and went to bed. I read, ate some peanuts, raisins and dates….and then an energy bar. The strong coffee kept me awake and even now I feel alert. Thus I am opposite the internet cafe, drinking coffee, waiting for it to open!  He has about 300 doughnuts now.  I succumbed to 2 doughnuts and then walked over to wait for the internet cafe to open. Three other riders turned up and went over to the cafe-stall. One had taken a photo. A policeman came over to me  ”One of your friends, he took a photograph- no photos here”.  ”Where,  just here or the area in general?”  ”Nowhere in Dongola,  not allowed!”  We got talking and went over together for a coffee. It turns out that the $US 63 we paid out yesterday, through the TDA, was for a permit to be in Dongola (50) and a license to be able to take photos (13).  So we are safe!

Best wishes,

Eric