Sat 23
After a day on Ibrupofen, my back felt rather better, hurting on only one side Leaving camp at 7am., the canal was on our left and a narrow strip of intensive market gardening on the right, contiguous with the Nile.
A mist lay over the countryside, a veiled beauty slowly revealing her charms. Palm-peppered small fields gave way to softly rounded low hills. Roadless villages, of the same clay as the earth with which they blended, clothed the hillsides.
At 70 km., the lunch truck awaited us at an impossibly beautiful location, on the bank of the Nile where it took a gentle curve.
I had been cycling on my own again, at a steady 30 kph with no wind and flat roads. At the 50 km. mark, I came across Gilles, just getting back on after a puncture. For about 10 kms., we drafted each other while maintaining about 34 kph. My back was stiffening so I suggested he go on alone. At 65 kms., a group of about 8 riders streamed past me so I tagged on. The speed was 38 and, at the back of the peloton, it required no more effort than on my own on 30.
Lunch stop by the Nile
After lunch, I set off on my own again until I reached camp at Idfu. We erected our tents on a soccer pitch across the road from the Nile.
After soup, I wandered into town to look for a hardware shop. I bought a bowl big enough for a St. Bernard dog and a spoon that really is a ladle. He wanted 25 Egyptian pounds for just the bowl; I paid him 12 pound sterling) for the two.
Next a haircut. The first guy wanted 30,came down to 20. Along the road, another barber asked for 10. He did a good job so I asked him to trim the hairs in my ears….BIG mistake! He took a ball of twine. holding one end in his mouth and the other in his free hand; while keeping them very tight, he expertly twisted them against each other while skimming over my ear. It is very effective, but so painful as it literally plucks the hairs out. Sadly, I could not leave the second ear undone!
Ear trim
The nights and early morning are still very cold, though the days are very warm. This will continue to be the case for a few days more though the day temperatures will rise.
I should mention that some riders had sticks thrown at them today; one girl was spat on. But almost everyone is so enthusiastic and welcoming.
Street scene in Idfu
117 kms Average speed 29kph Hrs cycling 4 hours
24 Sunday
Today we rode to Aswan. I started with the leading group. It was going well till a speed bump caused a bottle to drop. By the time I had retrieved it, there was no way to catch them. Condemned to cycle alone again. I think it is safer actually. You get a better view of upcoming obstacles..
In Idfu by the Nile
The scenery has been quite pleasant as we meandered in and out of the Nile.
From the finish of today’s ride until lunch in 2 days time, we have to feed ourselves. The trucks have had to go on ahead with most of our luggage. Sometime tomorrow we catch the ferry for a 20 hour crossing. There is no time schedule, it can leave at 10 am or 10pm. There are toilets, but they soon get to overflowing. Go early we are told. There are a few cabins, which will be allocated to the riders on the basis of age seniority. So I am in. But we are also told that it is rather pleasant on deck; there is a good chance of bed bugs in the cabins. I feel I have been offered a sticky lollipop which has just fallen on the ground!
Best wishes,
Eric.
Sounds like the hard work prior to this adventure is paying of with your fitness levels.
Hope the bed turns out to be bug free and the 20 hour crossing gives your back and body a well deserved rest.
Sounds fantastic, enjoy..Mike
Fascinating reading Eric. Realy enjoying your tales.
Hi Eric,
It seems such a shame that you are riding all that way and have to spend most of it on your own. Having company and someone to talk to generally makes the task that bit easier and pass quickly. Take it easy on your back and keep up the good work, everyone is behind you in spirit.
Dave & Sue
Hi Eric,
it’s always a pleasure to read your blog-entries. We are looking forward to your next writings.
Enjoy riding, take care and please say greatings to Gisi.
Rainer & Claudia
Eric
It must be vewy difficult to ride with so much back pain. I agree with Graham that it is fasinating reading. I just wished that the cycling could have been pain free. I hope that you are on the ferry resting while I am writing this.
At Thamsanqa we are trying to keep it up. Little Bonkhe, our baby when you were here is now speaking. He tells me lots of things when I arrive at their home and tries out English words.
I wish a pain free journey from here.
Tia
What an adventure and you are still going. Do you travel down the Nile through Sudan as we lived there for six years? I hope so as I will look forward to the pictures. take care Brenda
Hi Eric. We are really enjoying your stories! Stay safe and on the saddle. Lots of love. Peter & Daphne
I had a bit of trouble with my computer yesterday and couldn’t read my e-mails. However, it was all worth waiting for! You can be a poet after you have finished and recovered from this exercise. Keep going.
Anita
What a fantastic adventure,really enjoy reading your tales. Take care.
Mike and Pat
Hi Dad, I hope the ‘ear hair’ genes haven’t been passed on to me! Looks like you are cycling past some spectacular views, must be amazing. Hope the pain goes away soon.
Looking forward to seeing your next blogg.
Martin
Hi Dad, you big girl!!! You are upset with getting your ears plucked! Try being a girl and having to have leg, bikini and under arm wax on a regular basis. Isnt that right girls!
Hee Hee Hee! xxxxxxx
Hi, We think it is not nice that you have to face bed bugs. Must be like sharing a bed with Erin. And it was funny seeing the baldy patch on your head in the picture. That made us giggle xxxx